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Nikon FAQ on Upgrading Manual Focus Lenses with Matrix Metering Chips.

 

THIS PAGE WAS UPDATED ON OCTOBER 4, 2004. I AM STILL IN BUSINESS AND HAVE NARROWED MY LIST OF LENSES THAT I SERVICE IN ORDER TO KEEP UP WITH POPULAR DEMAND.

 

Which lenses can be converted?

28mm f/3.5 PC Need entire lens (Auto metering must be done at full aperture)

35mm f/2.8 PC Need entire lens (Auto metering must be done at full aperture)

105mm f/1.8 Need entire lens

105mm f/4 Micro Need entire lens

135mm f/2 Need entire lens

135mm f/3.5 Need entire lens

180mm f/2.8 Need entire lens

200mm f/2

200mm f/4

200mm f/4 Micro

300mm f/2

300mm f/2.8

300mm f/4.5

400mm f/2.8

400mm f/3.5

400mm f/5.6  

500mm mirror lenses

600mm f/4

600mm f/5.6

800mm f/5.6

50-135mmm f/3.5  Need entire lens

50-300mm f/4.5  Need entire lens

70-150mmm f/3.5 Series E  Need entire lens

200-400mm f/4  

M Series Extension tube

Tamron/Tokina/Sigma 300mm 2.8 manual focus Nikon Mount lenses

Tamron/Tokina/Sigma Mirror lenses Chip used will be f/4 or f/5.6 but will still meter properly.

 

Can you modify my 105mm f/2.5 lens?

If it’s not in the above list I don’t modify it. 

Let me repeat this, if it is not on the above list I don't do it.

And just to make sure it is clearly stated because I get emails every day asking about lenses I don't fix.....If it is not on the above list I do not fix it.

 

I don’t modify most extention tubes or ANY tele-converters either.  I don’t know any other camera technician that does these modifications either. Sorry. If you are in Europe and don't want to send it to the USA good luck finding someone. Every month or so I get some European complaining that they do not want to ship it over the Atlantic Ocean, as if the Atlantic Ocean was the Bermuda Triangle.  I have no apathy for these people. In the USA I get orders all the way from the West Coast and I'm on the East Coast. Shipping is pretty accurate and secure now a days.

 

I broke my lens trying to do the conversion myself. Where can I buy parts? Can you tell me exactly how you do this so I can set up my own business and compete against you?

 

Surprisingly enough I can variations of this question on a weekly basis.  Here is my official answer:   "If you are not savvy enough to figure it out by looking at all the pictures on my web site and reading the FAQ, you should just send it into me and pay me to fix it."

 

How much does the conversion cost?

Price is $115 dollars PER LENS plus $5 S&H anywhere in the USA & Canada.  For foreign orders S&H and insurance cost is $15 per order. Large orders may require additional S&H charges.  

What’s “Need entire lens” mean in your above list?

It means you need to mail the entire lens to me.  For all other lenses all you need to send is the metal F-mount.  It can be easily removed with a small Philips screwdriver

available at your local hardware store.  Don't worry no springs or levers go flying when you take it off. See my web page for details.

 

Do you give discounts on large orders?

No. I don’t care if you send 10 lenses to get upgraded, the price is the same regardless of quantity because it takes the same amount of work. Please don’t ask for discounts I find it annoying.  If you can find anyone to do it cheaper please give them your business; it will give me more time to do what I love, photography.

 

How long does the conversion take?

Approximately 10 to 14 days if you send a money order or certified check. If you send a personal check I wait for it to clear before I ship the lenses back to you.  It helps if you email me and tell me what lens you are shipping so that I can order any necessary parts. RECENTLY I HAVE HAD LONG DELAYS FROM GETTING PARTS FROM NIKON USA, WHO GETS THEM FROM NIKON JAPAN IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU CALL TO CONFIRM AVAILABILITY IF YOU NEED A QUICK TURN AROUND TIME.

 

Will this work for the Fuji S1, S2, and Nikon D70, D100, D1, D1x, D1h Digital Cameras? How about Kodak digital SLR's with Nikon bodies?

Yes, the conversion works with ALL Nikon and Fuji and Kodak AF cameras, even the new ones coming out like the D2x, S3, etc.!

 

Where do I send the lenses and money to?

Just send lenses & money to me at:

Rolland Elliott

14019 Southbridge Forest Drive

Charlotte, NC  28273

USA

ph# 704 504-3528  

QUESTIONS?  EMAIL ME AT portraits@carolina.rr.com

 

Can I preorder parts for faster turn around?

Yes. You can prepay and then I will order parts for your lenses. Once parts arrive I will email you back and tell you to send your lenses. This provides the fastest turn around time.

 

I don’t want to send my expensive lenses or Nikon f mounts through the mail to you. Do you just sell the parts so I could do the conversion myself?

I do not normally sell parts. Call up Nikon’s Parts department and order them your self. Please note that if you think you’ll be saving money by doing it yourself I think you’ll be quite disappointed.  Also please do not call me asking me how to put back together a lens that you broke by trying to upgrade it yourself.

 

Does this matrix chip upgrade add "D" (distance) compatibility to my lenses?

Please note that I do NOT upgrade non "D" lenses to "D" lenses. I use “non-D” chips so that incorrect distance information is NOT sent to the camera’s computer.

 

Can you upgrade ALL Manual focus lenses?  

NO

SEE THE LIST UNDER THE FAQ ABOVE!

 

Do you guarantee your work?

YES! 6 month warranty against defects in parts and labor, does not cover user abuse.

 

Have people who have had this upgrade done left any feedback?

You can read some positive feedback about my services by going to: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000UIq and scrolling towards the bottom of the screen. There's not a lot of comments. Generally,  if people are satisfied they tend to forget to leave feedback. Also note that some comments are outdated since this feedback goes back a couple of years.

 

What happens with the contacts needed for the electronic connection, since the lens was not originally  designed to have any electronic connection?

The whole point of the modification is that I install these electrical contacts. Look at the pictures on my web site.

 

Will this modification allow the spot meter to work with AIS lenses on  the newer N-series cameras? 

It will work fine on other Nikon AF cameras too.

 

I'm assuming that installing your chips does not in any way affect the continuing manual focus operation of my lens with my older manual bodies?

NO EFFECT!

 

How much each for a NEW F mount and matrix chip?

I’ve had a handfull of requests from Nikon users that are afraid that by modifying their existing lens mount they will somehow be degrading the value of their lens and therefore want me to supply them with a new separate lens mount with the matrix chip attached.  The problem is that many MF lenses have light baffles on the inside of the F

mount that need to be filed and cut so the matrix chip

fits inside.  So you therefore need to buy both a lens mount and a baffle to keep your lens in “pristine” condition.  I actually use a very precise Dremell industrial drill that rotates at 30,000rpm so the modification looks like its factory done. 

I do not sell Nikon parts; if you want to buy Nikon parts call up Nikon’s parts department and order them yourself. Please note that if you don’t have an open repair account with them prices are rather high.

Personally I think you guys are weird.  You probably have an obsessive compulsive disorder that makes you clean your lenses so often you wear off the coatings.  See my web page for pictures of the

modifications.

 

Doesn't the matrix metering in Nikon Cameras need to know the focal length of the lens in use? And if so is this information transferred in your upgrade?

First of all, the lens focal length information is not needed for matrix metering.  This is backed up by Nikon Literature. The "Nikon F5 Technical guide" ( a free SALES brochure published by Nikon different from the standard F-5 sales brochure) lists all the variables Color Matrix metering takes into account. The focal length of the lens is not one of them. Matrix metering does take in to account scene brightness & contrast which is dependent on the maximum

aperture though.

 

Nikon's sales brochure for the N90s camera also describes how matrix metering works and all the variables involves. Focal length isn't included in these calculations.  Nikon cameras only use the focal length information to suggest a good shutter speed in program mode.

 

Since the N70 and F100 use a similar matrix metering system compared to the N90s, these cameras don't use focal length information either. Call up Nikon at 1-800-Nikon-US and request these free brochures if you don't believe me!

 

Basically all of Nikon's top AF cameras don't use focal length information for matrix metering. And all of  Nikon’s older AF cameras (now out of production) don’t use focal length information either.

 

Secondly, All the camera needs to know to matrix meter correctly is the lens maximum aperture. I carefully choose the correct chip and install it into the lens.

 

 If you want to prove this to yourself order a 28mm f/2.8 chip, and a 180mm f/2.8 chip and install them one at a time in a lens with an aperture of 2.8 and take various meter readings. The meter readings will be the same even though one chip tells the camera it's a wide angle and the other chip tells the camera it's a telephoto.

 

Have you done many lenses? 

Hundreds!

 

Does your matrix chip upgrade electronically relay the focal length to automatic flash units like the SB-28?

The chip transmits two pieces of information

 1. The maximum & minimum aperture of the lens. The correct one for your lens.

 2. A set focal length (not necessarily the correct one). Because of this you will have to sometimes manually set the zoom flash setting on automatic flash heads.  This is because some lenses like the Nikon 400mm f/3.5 lens have no AF equivalent and thus an exact focal length match isn’t possible.

 

You mentioned that your conversion basically gives me a manual focus lens that meters like an autofocus lens. Are there any shortcoming’s of having this conversion done?

Here’s what the upgrade doesn’t do:

 1. transfer focussing distance (as D type would). *

 2. transfer actual focal length while zooming on a manual focus lens.

 3. transfer a variable maximum aperture.  

* It should be noted that even Nikon’s D type lenses DO NOT transmit the exact subject distance.  If you have ever looked at a “D type” chip you will see the circuit board is divided into approximately 12 to 20 gold contact zones which rub up against a gold contact on the inside of the focusing ring. Therefore there are only 12 to 20 set distance zones that can be communicated to the body.  This is rather amazing since Nikon has basically divided the distance from infinity to a few feet into a finite amount of distance zones. Initially one would think many more divisions would be necessary, but apparently only 20 or so are needed to obtain maximum benefits when using flash photography.

 

Your pictures on your web page don’t show any moving contacts! So how does the camera know what aperture the lens is set at?

All of Nikon's professional (All of the F series, N90s, N90, and N70) cameras perform automatic metering by getting the maximum aperture information from the Matrix Chip and then noting how far over the aperture index coupling ring is moved over.  Consumer cameras like the N50, N55, N60, N65, Fuji S1, S2, D100, etc.,  have you set the lens’s aperture ring to the minimum aperture and the camera senses this by a tab on the camera lens. The camera then knows that the lens is always set at the minimum aperture and stops down the lens the correct amount via a mechanical lever.

 

Will my Nikon AF camera be able to use shutter preferred or program metering on an AIS lens that you convert? 

Yes.

 

I have a question about a Vivitar Series 1 90-180/4.5 (constant) AI macro that I may be buying.  Can you install a f4.5 CPU in this lens, especially given that it is AI and is not a Nikkor?

 

I only convert the lenses in my above list. Sorry. You are out of luck.

 

Does the conversion  involve replacing the mount, (i.e. the chrome colored ring with the bayonet)?  The reason I ask is because  that portion of the mount on my 400 f3.5 needs to be  replaced.  If this is not a normal part of the conversion could I pay you extra to do the bayonet  replacement at the same time as the conversion? 

 

A NEW MOUNT IS $50 EXTRA.

 

Can the modified lens be then set at its minimum aperture  and the aperture changed via the command dial (on an F5 or F100) or does the aperture have to be changed manually?

You can use the  command dial.

 

Your probably know this, but on the F5/F100, the aperture for CPU lenses does   NOT appear on the camera display unless the lens it   set at its minimum aperture (even though the aperture can be changed manually   in addition to via the command dial). So in other words, unless your chip also tells the F5/F100 when it is set at its minimum aperture, the aperture will not be displayed by the camera?

The camera knows the lens is set at its minimum  aperture by mechanical means (the AI tab is turned  all the way counterclockwise) not by the chip sending  it some electronic signal.  The reason I say this is  because there are NO electronics that go from the chip  to the aperture mechanism or aperture ring on Nikon  AF lenses so the matrix metering chip in the lens has  no way of determining when it is set at the minimum.  Thus the only way for the camera to know the lens is at it's minimum is by the AI tab (this might not hold  true for AFS lenses, but if you have AFS lenses you  don't need a CPU upgrade)

 

The four non-central spot meter areas on an F5/F100 do not work with non CPU lenses. Will this chip enable these?

Yes, it does.

 

The F5/F100/D1 series records the focal   length of the lens being used if   it has a CPU. Does the chip   you insert need to store this?

I try to use a chip with an exact focal length match, but sometimes this is not possible. The thing that is  important is that it will transmit the correct  aperture information.

 

"Could you share a little more detail about how you do this? How do you know which chip to use?  Can you only do this for lenses where there are exact MF/AF equivalents?"

I just choose a NON-D type  matrix  metering chip that has the same maximum aperture as the lens in use.   For  instance if you want your 400mm f/3.5 lens modified I would probably  use the  matrix chip from the 200mm f/3.5 EDIF AF lens (which is no longer made,  but  spare parts are still available) or the chip from the 28-70mm f/3.5 to  4.5 AF  lens or the 28-85mm f/3.5 to 4.5 N AF, etc.  The nice thing about the  matrix  chips for the zooms is that by adjusting the electronics I can tell the  camera  body what aperture to use.  Nikon makes so many lens, finding a match  is easy.  

Also for everyone that has asked if I make these lenses "D" distance  compatible  the answer is NO!  Nikon's D lenses use a flexible circuit board that  comes in  contact with metal contacts, usually on the inside of the focusing  ring.   Depending on the focus's ring position the distance information is sent  to the  camera.  Adding a flexible circuit board inside the lens' focusing ring  of a  manual focus lens would require the complete redesign of the lens,  which is  exactly what Nikon did to upgrade the D lenses.  However the "D"  distance  information is only really beneficial for flash exposures.  In addition  although the matrix metering chips I add won't transmit distance  information  they will allow "advanced matrix balanced fill flash" which is a lot  better  than the center-weighted fill flash you'd get using regular manual  focus  lenses. 

 

What about flash; will I get matrix-balanced TTL flash?

Yes you get Matrix Balanced TTL flash. Please note that you do not get 3D Matrix Balanced Fill Flash.

 

There was a discussion recently as to whether you were using the appropriate matrix chip for each specific lens type. I believe the crux of the argument centered on the appropriate maximum f-stop and the "long" telephoto notch on the mounting plate. Can you clarify this point, please?

When installing a matrix metering chip into a MF lens you must use a matrix chip that has the same maximum aperture as the MF lens you want to modify.  Example: If you want your 300mm f/2.8 AIS lens to be capable of matrix metering you must use a matrix chip that transmits a maximum aperture of f/2.8 to the camera body.  

The "long" telephoto notch on the mounting plate you refer to is probably the AIS notch (forgot the official name of this notch), which communicates the lens' focal length to older camera bodies.  This allows the body to choose the most appropriate shutter speed aperture combination for a given lens.  IT DOES NOT INFLUENCE THE EXPOSURE READING. For example instead of the camera choosing f/11 and 1/60 of a second for an exposure with a 500mm f/4 lens, if the body knows the focal length via the notch it would probably recommend f/4 and 1/500 of a second, thereby reducing potential

camera shake. 

 

On an electronic camera such as the F5 what will the  computer think the F stop setting on the lens is? 

 The CPU lenses send the lens aperture to the  camera's CPU where the info is used and also  displayed in the finder.

 

The matrix chip will allow the F5 to know the aperture that the lens is set at.  The chip tells the camera what the max and minimum aperture of the lens is.  When you use these modified lenses it will be just like using an AF lens, in that you will get matrix metering, spot metering, and aperture information in the finder except you will of course have to Manual focus your lenses.

 

 I assume neither the lens distance or aperture  setting is actually available to be transmitted by  the lens CPU in these conversions.  In the several  Nikon "P" lenses such as the 500/4.0 EDIF-P is the  aperture set on the lens transmitted to the camera?

As mentioned above the chip sends the min and max aperture of the lens to the camera's CPU. The camera (in M&A modes) is able to determine any aperture between the min and max by knowing how far over the aperture index (AI) tab has been moved.  The AI tab is the little black tab that sticks out from the camera body and couples with the lens’s aperture ring.  In P&S modes the aperture is always set at the minimum.  Somehow the camera knows how far down to stop the lens.  I don't know exactly how the camera does this.  But it works, so I don't complain!

 

It surprises me even more that Nikon has not offered this upgrade

themselves?

Far from what most people think this conversion is not as simple as it looks.  You just don’t drill a couple of holes and put the chip in.  Nikon would have to  make new black baffles for many of it’s lenses and would have to make new lens mounts with the holes necessary to attach the chips to.  I get around this by drilling the screw holes into the existing F mount of the lens and modifying the black baffle.

 

I  wanted to know if the addition would work just the same on an AI series

 lens as it would on an AIS (or E) series lens One of my AI lenses was AI'd  converted by Nikon for AIS operation. Will the conversion work with a lens that was converted in this manner?

For the most part yes, but there are some things you should be aware of.   I have actually added the aperture indexing ridge on some old Nikkor lenses (the 80mm f/1.8, 135mm f/3.5 & 200mm f/4 lens) and they seem to work fine in all auto exposure modes (P, M, A & S) However, these NON AI (aperture indexed) lenses do not have a linear relationship between the amount the aperture lever moves and the actual aperture of the lens.

 

You could just use matrix metering in A & M modes, but based on my field usage, these AI’d lenses with chips work fine in all exposure modes. This may not be true for all Nikon AI lenses.

 

As a side note Nikon Changed from the AI mount to the AIS mount in 1982.  Therefore the above question is only a concern if your lenses are over 24  years old.  Needless to say 99% of the lenses sent to me are AIS and I hardly convert any AI lenses.

 

I do not recommend converting AI lenses to be used on bodies where you can only control the aperture via a subcommand dial. (All Fuji and Kodak SLR's as well as Nikon D70 and D100.)

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